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How to Build a Tool or Garden Shed If your garage wall is running out of room for all your lawn and garden gadgets you should consider building a tool shed. Here are some tips to get you through it: - Call your local building code department to find out what permits you'll need for this type of structure.
- Determine how large your shed should be. A reasonable size seems to be 6ft. x 8ft. This rectangular design will allow you to easily expand your shed in the future.
- In most instances, sheds of the above dimensions will not require a concrete foundation. Four cinder blocks or solid concrete blocks placed on the ground under the shed's four corners should work nicely. Be sure the blocks are level. If the shed starts to settle unevenly, simply jack up the low side and use wood shims between the block and the floor frame to level it back out.
- Mark off the area by first making a small, light-weight frame that's the exact size of your shed. Brace the frame with a diagonally-placed 2x4. Then, use stakes and string to mark off your site and remove the frame.
- Next, find the highest corner in the site and dig out a space for the block. Be sure to dig a few inches wider and longer than the block. Use crushed rock under it to provide a stable base. Ensure the block is aligned with the layout string and that it is level across its length and width. Dig out the space for the second block and double-check that it is level with the first. Add the other corner blocks in the same way.
- For the floor joists, it's a good idea to use pressure-treated lumber. Cut 2x6 stock to length for the front and rear joists. Then, mark the joists placing the cross boards 16 in. apart. Use 1-½ in. joist hanger nails to nail the joist hangers to the inner sides of the front and rear joists. Next, place the front and rear joists on the blocks and cut and place the cross boards. Nail them in place and double the front and rear joists. After you've finished, compare opposite, diagonal measurements to make sure the floor frame is square. Then, add ¾ in. thick plywood for the shed floor using 8d nails placed approximately six inches apart.
- For the walls, again use 2x6 stock for the door and window headers. Use pieces of ½ in. plywood as spacers between the 2x6 headers. Nail the header pieces together using 16d common nails.
Use 2x4s, cut to length, for the wall studs, as well as window and door jack studs. Nail each jack stud to a wall stud with 8d nails. For the four corners, use three 2x4s as spacers between the studs.
Begin constructing the wall by laying the top and bottom wall pieces on the shed floor. Lay out the stud locations on the top and bottom pieces. Nail the studs through the top piece. Then, secure the bottom piece and nail it to the wall studs. Frame around the window opening. Next, nail the second top piece to the first top piece. The second piece should be 3-½ in. shorter on each end than the first top piece.
Compare the opposite angles on the wall to ensure that it is square. Make adjustments as needed until the wall is square. Now, apply ½ in.-thick plywood sheathing to the outer side of the wall using 6d nails placed approximately six inches apart.
After you've finished nailing the plywood, you're ready to stand the wall. Be sure to brace the rear wall with 2x4s nailed between the wall and the outside floor joists.
Construct the front wall in the same manner, leaving the plywood sheathing off for now. Stand the front wall and brace it. Remember to stand the wall ½ in. from the edge of the floor to allow space for the sheathing. Now, one at a time, frame the side walls and stand them leaving the top piece (mentioned earlier) off until the walls are raised. After you've raised the walls and nailed them together at the corners, you can apply the final, cut top pieces. Make sure the walls are level and nail temporary diagonal braces to the insides of the walls.
Apply the remaining plywood. Be sure to leave 1-½ in. at the top to allow room for the gable-end sheathing.
Note: The window is optional; however, it will provide light in your shed without running electricity to it.
- Now it's time to frame the roof. Use a framing square to layout the 5-in. pitch on the first rafter. Cut out the first rafter and use it as a pattern to trace the second rafter. Check that the first two fit and trace and cut the remaining rafters.
Cut a gusset, or a triangular plate of ½ in-thick plywood, for each truss. Use a ¾ in. sheet of plywood as a work table and draw the roof truss directly onto the plywood. Align two of the rafters with the pattern and, using 1-1/2 in. roofing nails, nail the gusset to the two rafters. Your gusset should go directly over the rafters to hold them securely in place.
Toenail (drive the nails in at an angle) the trusses to the front and rear walls using 8d nails. At the roof ends, or gables, make sure the gussets face the insides of the shed.
Popular Mechanics recommends that you "cut 2 x 6 stock to length for the sub-fascia, and nail the boards to the rafter ends with 16d common nails. Cut and install the gable-end sheathing, and then nail 1 x 6 pine furring over the gable rafters. Rip cedar stock to width for the front and back soffits and cut it to length. Use 6d galvanized finishing nails to fasten the soffit boards to the rafters and sub-fascia. Then, install the cedar fascia and rake trim. Install the plywood roof deck, allowing it to overhang the fascia by 1/2 in. along the eaves. Nail aluminum drip edge to the eaves, and apply roofing felt. Then, install the drip edge along the rake edges."
- After you've applied the roofing felt, you're ready to lay shingles. Simply follow the manufactures instructions. Because the tongue-and-groove siding is installed vertically, you'll need to add 2x4 nailing blocks between the studs. Cut the nailers and install them about halfway up the wall by toenailing them to adjacent studs.
If you're planning to paint the trim a different color than the shed, you'll want to install the roof trim before you install the siding. For the siding, cut siding boards to length and begin installing them at one of the back corners. Face nail the first board but toenail the remaining boards to hide the nail heads. Use galvanized finishing nails for fastening boards, 8d nails for fastening to the 2x4 framing and 6d nails for the plywood sheathing. You should set the nail heads slightly below the wood surface.
- Now, it's time to install the door and window. Follow the directions below, provided by Popular Mechanics, and you'll have a great multi-purpose "Super Shed."
Nail the jambs directly to the framing, with the outside edge of each jamb flush to the face of the siding. At the windows, slope the sill pieces about 5° toward the outside of the building, add the top jambs, and then cut the side jambs to fit.
Cut stops for the windows from 1 x cedar stock, and install the outer stops with 6d galvanized finishing nails. Then, place a window in each opening and add the inner stops.
Rip door and window trim and shed corner boards from rough-sawn cedar. Cut each piece to length and nail in place.
Cut siding boards to length for the shed door. Use clamps to pull the boards together, but don't use glue on the joints. Cut the battens for the door, and screw them to the inside surface of the boards.
Hold the door hinges in place and mark the mounting-hole locations. Bore pilot holes and fasten the hinges to the shed. Position the door with a 1/4-in. space on the sides and top, and mark the hinge holes. Bore pilot holes and mount the hinges (Photo 17). Install the door pull and hasp. Cut the doorstops and nail them in place on the top and open-side jamb. Then, stain or paint the windows, door and remaining trim.
We built a ramp from pressure-treated stock to make it easier to wheel a mower or snowthrower into the shed. To build a ramp, use 2 x 6 material spaced about 1/2 in. apart for the ramp deck, and 2 x 4 stock for battens underneath.
Courtesy www.popularmechanics.com Super Shed. Visit the site for more information and to see helpful photos of the construction in process.
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